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According to Besha Rodell in LA Weekly's recent review of Bucato, the Culver City restaurant "turns out some of the most glorious pastas this city has ever seen, each bowl a small miracle....This pesto is revelatory in its vast difference from run-of-the-mill pesto, its flavors bright yet mellow, its grassy, tangy perfume almost sharply floral."
Later, Rodell praises head chef Evan Funke's vegetable dishes as well:
He thinks harder about how to get the most out of simple broccoli than many chefs do about far more complex dishes. His sprouting-broccoli dish is incredibly straightforward — sautéed with olive oil and a touch of garlic, and served with thin slices of picked chilis.
Yet it tastes like the platonic ideal of broccoli, the sweetest, most vegetal, most intense broccoli ever. When asked how this is possible, Funke explains in detail the four farms he's sourcing his broccoli from, how one farm is close to the coast; with hot days and cold nights; how another produces broccoli watered with snow runoff; how all of these things contribute to the flavors of each kind; and how, when mixed together, they create "super broccoli." He's right: It really is super.
The complete review can be read HERE.
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