Four Culver City Restaurants Land on Jonathan Gold's '99 Essential Restaurants' List

Four Culver City restaurants were featured in the 2011 edition of Jonathan Gold's list of "99 Essential Restaurants" in Los Angeles: A-Frame, Akasha, Mayura, and Waterloo & City. Quite a respectable showing! You can read the whole list on the LA Weekly's website here

Calling A-Frame's fare "street food elevated by classical technique," Gold adds,

In one sense, there are fewer Korean-influenced preparations at A-Frame than there tend to be at Roy Choi's other restaurants, Chego and Kogi, but the crabcakes, scented with lemongrass, are served with a stack of ggaenip leaves to wrap them in, and the grilled lamb chops, although they come in a green sauce not too different from a Border Grill salsa, undoubtedly were rubbed with Korean chile paste before they hit the fire.

Although conceding that Akasha is a "crunchy Westside fever dream of a restaurant," Gold admits,

...when people talk about Akasha, it tends to be for its supernally crunchy onion rings, or its antioxidant-rich cocktails, or its Nimah Ranch pork chop with cheddar grits, which, you know — not bad. Although you are practically handed a certificate of authenticity with your Rutiz Farms beet salad, or your Coleman Farms radishes, if you'd rather have a burger, grilled albacore with shisito peppers, Cuban roast chicken with black beans or a plate of short ribs instead of a pizza with Weiser Farms eggplant, Richmond makes sure that you are happy, too.

Gold waxes rhapsodic about Mayura:

...even if you are familiar with Southern Indian cooking, a lot of the food here may be new to you: saucer-shaped rice-flour pancakes called appam; a complexly spiced fish curry with undernotes of tamarind and garlic; and ven pongal, a peppery concoction of rice lashed with cumin, cashews and ungodly amounts of melted butter. If Mayura happens to be offering its special Kerala-style biryani, order it without question. The fluffiness of the rice and the sharpness of the spicing are superb.

And Gold appreciates that Waterloo & City, chef, Brendan Collins is "deeply in love with meat":

...especially the charcuterie he makes himself — loaves of sweetbreads bound in gelatin with pig's trotters; rabbit with pistachios; the occasional terrine of eel and foie gras — it's a virtuosic display, even if you don't go on to the burgers made with 30-day-aged meat or the crisp pig shank confit, sizzled in its own fat.

A-Frame is located at 12565 W. Washington Blvd.

Akasha is located at 9543 Culver Blvd.

Mayura is located at 10406 Venice Blvd.

And Waterloo & City is located at 12517 Washington Blvd.

 

 

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