Famed Los Angeles food critic Jonathan Gold just reviewed Culver City's new ramen restaurant, Yamadaya. Read the whole review in the LA Weekly here. Gold begins his review with the age-old question, "What could be more piggy than pork?" And answers:

Tonkotsu ramen, aficionados insist, and they may have a point. Tonkotsu broth is made by boiling pork bones until they collapse under their own weight. 

In fact, he says, Yamadaya...

<... takes porkiness to a new extreme, a tongue-coating, brain-penetrating pig plasma that comes at you as if shot from an umami gun set to stun. You don't just eat Yamadaya ramen, you wear it like a straitjacket. You're not going anywhere until you're done. 

Ramen Yamadaya is located at 11172 Washington Blvd. It's open from 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. and 5:30-9 p.m., Tuesday through Sunday.