Los Angeles Times Re-evaluates L'Epicerie Market

Last week, S. Irene Virbila, the Los Angeles Times restaurant critic takes another look at L'Epicerie Market. She says that under new chef Sébastien Archambault, from southwest France, the place is beginning to find it's footing. Says Virbila: 

Since Thierry Perez, formerly of Fraîche and Providence, opened L'Epicerie Market last fall, it's been something of a work in progress. I couldn't get a fix on it for the longest time. Is it a takeout place? A cafe? A wine bar? A market? Somewhere to drop in for a bite anytime? The menu is a bit of a hodgepodge; the place too.

However, since Archambault came aboard, Virbila says the restaurant has become more inviting and the food more enticing:

The food is all very casual, very much in the French comfort food zone. You can find pretty salads — like the mix of spring vegetables with fragrant pesto and black olive tapenade, Archambault's rustic charcuterie, and wonderful Périgord specialties like those escargots and a comforting garlic and chicken soup thickened with egg.

And they have the best duck confit around — the flesh is moist and slightly salty, the skin succulent and crisp. And it's served with what has become my little indulgence, potatoes sarladaise cooked in duck fat so there are crispy bits and creamy bits.

You can read the whole review here.


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